Planting Currants near Pines

Currants, especially black currants, are the alternate host for the disease known as white pine blister rust. Successful raising of currants demands the elimination of white pine as the easiest preventive measure.

Picking fruit from newly planted Raspberries, Blackberries, Currants, etc.

Inasmuch as the size and quality of the succeeding crop depends on the new canes that are being formed, all of the plant's strength should be directed to the making of as many strong new canes as possible. This can best be accomplished by removing all flowers the first season thereby diverting the plant's strength to new cane growth.

Leaving Raspberry canes which have fruited in place until the following spring

These should be cut out as soon as the fruit has been gathered to make room for young canes which will bear fruit the following year.

Not pruning Raspberries

Fruiting canes are cut to the ground after bearing. The new growth is pruned half the length of the canes, when leaf buds begin to appear on the stalks in the spring. This prevents too much top growth and encourages fruit.

Constant heavy pruning of young fruit trees

Will force considerable vegetative growth and delay the beginning of the bearing stage. In the pear, there is the added danger of fire blight disease. Prune very little after the head is formed until bearing begins.

Planting fruit trees in a low lying site or pocket for protection

There is no protection. Cold air flows down and collects in such places making it colder than higher ground. Late frosts will cause injury where higher places escape. With poor air circulation, disease is always present.

Planting dwarf fruit trees too deeply

If planted so that the grafted part is buried, roots will form above the graft and a tall tree will result. The dwarfing quality is in the grafted root-stock. Keep the union (point of graft) above the soil level.

Growing Peaches by planting pits

Will not produce the same peach variety and is likely to be inferior. Peaches are grown by budding or grafting the named variety, mostly, on the seedling peach.

Setting fruit plants in a shady situation

Fruit will not be produced. All fruit plants need full sunshine to develop fruit tissue and ripen the fruit. Plants are weakened in shade.

Allowing fallen fruit of any kind to lie around under the tree, bush, or vine and rot

Insects or disease may be harbored and perpetuated unless you gather up the fallen fruit and bury it deeply underground, or take other complete disposal steps.

Planting Strawberries in soil that grew sod or was unused for a number of years

Roots will be eaten by white grubs which are always present here. Put soil in shape by planting a crop, that needs cultivation; Corn, Cabbage, Tomatoes, etc., for one or two years prior to planting Strawberries.

Failing to protect fruit trees from rabbits

Rabbits are likely to severely injure and often kill young fruit trees by girdling the bark at base of trunk during winter when food is scarce. Cylinders of tarpaper tied around trunks (leaving an air space between paper and bark) will prevent injury, but paper should reach at least 15 ins. above level of snow when ground is covered.

Planting Blueberries on alkaline soil

They require a soil constantly kept acid. Treatment of alkaline soil before planting is not sufficient. Acidity must be maintained by annual applications of acidifying mulch, such as sawdust.

Planting pot-grown Strawberry plants too late in fall, and expecting crop of berries the following June

They should be set out early enough to have 2 to 3 months of growth before ground freezes, and thus establish fairly substantial crowns.

Planting single specimens of Pears, some varieties of Apples and Peaches, and other non self-pollinating tree fruits

In planting such, make certain that a suitable cross-pollinating variety is provided. This information can be obtained from your nurseryman or your state experiment station.

Planting Strawberries too deep or too shallow

If plants are set too deep, crowns may easily be covered with soil, causing new leaves to rot at the crown and possibly destroying the crown. If too shallow, roots are left exposed, or plants may be heaved out of ground during first winter after planting.

Assuming that several different kinds or varieties of fruits can be sprayed or dusted at one time for control of insects or diseases

Effectiveness of control measures depends largely upon proper "timing" to catch certain stages of bud, flower, or fruit development. Hence, any spray calendar for homegrown fruits is quite complicated.

Letting Grapevines go unpruned

Unpruned Grapes will grow vigorously and produce well for several seasons but are difficult to again bring under control. For satisfactory fruit production they are best, and easiest, pruned every fall or winter.

Failure to protect from birds

These "feathered friends" are pretty certain to harvest, or spoil, a large part of any crop of such homegrown fruits as Strawberries, Raspberries, Blueberries and Cherries. Mechanical protection by covering with heavy cheesecloth or with plant-protecting cloth (sold by most seed houses) is surest and easiest protection.

Picking and handling fruits carelessly, resulting in slight bruising, or tearing from stems

All tree fruits, even when quite "firm" should be handled at every stage of harvesting with greatest care. Avoid also tearing stems from branches, as this may injure fruiting spurs.

Letting Pears get too ripe before picking

Many varieties ripen from the core out, and if left with soft spots on the surface may be decayed inside. Some varieties are best picked while still hard, wrapped in papers, and stored in a dark, fairly cool place.

Storing imperfect fruits

"One rotten apple may spoil the barrel" - and one tiny spot or bruise is pretty sure to spoil the whole fruit. Examine carefully every specimen selected for storing. Those not perfect can be set aside for early use, or canned.

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